The Rise of Sustainable Materials: How do you commercialize sustainability in the watch industry?

I would argue that most of us associate the watch industry with timeless craftsmanship, precision, and luxury. While the emergence of independent and micro brands is driving positive change in terms of value, innovation, and design, overall, the industry is still quite slow to adapt to changes. The fact that the industry is tightly woven with a highly complex supply chain that manages environmental challenges, ethical production, and fair living wages further reduces the speed and adaptability of the industry.

We are part of this supply chain as an accessories manufacturer and have been given the opportunity to share our insights into trends, challenges, and opportunities in the watch industry, specifically on the manufacturing side. We will cover multiple different topics in a coming article series that is also posted on TimeWorld IO. 

Read Part I of the article series here: Timeworld

During the last decade, sustainability has been a buzzword for our clients in the industry. Something that many stakeholders want to promote but is often not fully integrated into their supply chain. Change, especially change in sustainability, comes with substantial changes in how we need to deal and work with external stakeholders. Sustainability does not stop at the production site, but ties into the overall supply chain network with raw material suppliers, logistics, direct- and indirect production etc.

The most traditional clients are embracing sustainability to a certain degree to align with internal and international sustainability goals. Most of them goes the “comfortable” route via the UNGC or sustainability certifications such as B-Corp and OEKOTEX. While these help to set the right framework for analysis and change, it also stops there. One of the main reasons why it stops there is the question of; how do you commercialize sustainability? 

Post-covid, we have focused a lot on how to commercialize sustainability. One thing that has been growing and will continue during 2025-2026 is the joint work of material innovation. As consumer and brand demand for sustainable and ethical products grows, it is up to us as a manufacturing partner to identify and evaluate material solutions that are viable in the supply chain, both commercially and quality wise. 

Two areas that we have identified as future areas of material advancement are bio-based and upcycled options.

Bio-Based Innovations: Are we moving away from PU?

Bio-based materials are rapidly becoming the cornerstone of sustainable manufacturing, especially as an alternative, but not replacement, to genuine leather. Historically, in the manufacturing setting, polyurethane (PU) was often used as an alternative to genuine leather. However, due to long-term quality issues and chemical usage, we see that PU-based products are being phased out and replaced by new bio-based materials.

The last five years have seen a multitude of different bio-based materials becoming available on the market that are derived from production waste such as fruit, vegetables, and cellulose. A majority of these materials also use PU as a top coat, a synthetic coating frequently applied to faux leather and biomaterial to enhance durability and texture.

While the PU used is generally in the range of 5-10%, it poses significant environmental risks, including the release of harmful volatile organic compounds (VOCs) during production and the inability to biodegrade, which leads to long-term pollution. While bio-degradable PU is being developed and commercialized, there are other viable options that do not use PU as a topcoat. Another thing to take into consideration is the origin of the bio-based material. While the material itself could be sustainable, it counteracts itself if the manufacturer has to import the material from abroad. So when searching for material innovation, it’s also worth investing in and researching what is available locally. 

Since our manufacturing plant is based in Thailand, we do a lot of collaboration with local stakeholders when it comes to material innovation. One prevalent material innovation is “pineapple leather that has been developed by a local tannery as an alternative to genuine leather. This is made via a recycled cotton-pineapple fiber blend that does not use PU. It is not only sustainable and locally sourced but also practical for industrial applications where genuine leather is traditionally used.

However, challenges remain in scaling such innovations. While materials like the cotton-pineapple fiber blend are still in the early stages of commercialization, their potential is immense. Local material sourcing with local production is something that we see is becoming a pivotal change in the manufacturing market.

Upcycled Materials: repurpose and add value to existing materials

Another notable innovation in commercializing sustainability is the use of upcycled materials. One notable example is a Swiss watch brand that uses wild boar leather for their straps. This leather comes from annual culling in Europe and historically would have been discarded and destroyed due to scratches and blemishes on the skin. This activity further promotes locally sourced material with local production.

One of the strategic partnerships that we have implemented is with a Japanese brand that purchases vintage kimonos at auction. Japan, the production of kimonos generates substantial fabric waste due to being discarded and left at landfills on an annual basis. This waste not only impacts the environment but also represents a lost opportunity for creative reuse. These kimonos, often over 20 or 30 years old, are deconstructed and repurposed into new products. Each product is a unique piece, carrying the history, craftsmanship, and vibrant designs of the original kimono fabric.

One of the biggest challenges in upcycling is the generation of scrap material during the production process. The way that we tackle this change is by taking leftover scraps from the initial manufacturing run in Japan and sending them to our facility in Thailand. Here, they are transformed into smaller items. This not only reduces waste to a bare minimum but also creates a circular supply chain, where materials are continuously repurposed rather than discarded.

To further support the commercial part of this sustainable initiative, we leveraged the Japan-Thailand Economic Partnership Agreement (JTEPA), which enables duty-free trade of certain products between the two countries. This collaborative approach enhances both the economic and environmental value of the upcycled materials.

The Path Ahead for Watch Accessories

At Adiantes, we believe that the future of watch accessory manufacturing will not be defined by one material or method but by the industry’s collective ability to innovate responsibly. Local material with local manufacturing linked to Free Trade Agreements (FTAs) will drive both traditional leather and modern alternatives while paving the way for a greener, more sustainable future that is easier to commercialize in a meaningful way.